1. Classification and characteristics of sewing thread
Sewing thread is the most commonly used classification of raw materials classification, including natural fiber sewing thread, synthetic fiber sewing thread and mixed sewing thread three categories.
⑴ natural fiber sewing thread
A. Cotton sewing thread: cotton fiber as raw materials by refining bleaching, sizing, waxing and other processes made of sewing thread. High strength, good heat resistance, suitable for high-speed sewing and durable pressure hot, the disadvantage is poor elasticity and wear resistance. It can be divided into no light (or cord), mercerized and wax light. Cotton suture is mainly used for cotton fabric, leather and high temperature ironing clothing sewing.
B. Silk line: made of natural silk filament yarn or silk thread, an excellent luster, its strength, flexibility and wear resistance are better than cotton, suitable for sewing all kinds of silk clothing, high-grade woolen clothing, fur And leather clothing. China ‘s ancient silk embroidery thread embroidery commonly used in the beautiful decorative Embroidery.
⑵ synthetic fiber sewing thread
A. Polyester sewing thread: is the main sewing thread, polyester filament or staple fiber as raw materials. With high strength, good elasticity, abrasion resistance, low shrinkage, good chemical stability characteristics, mainly for jeans, sportswear, leather products, wool and military uniforms such as sewing. It should be noted that the low melting point polyester suture, easy to melt in the high-speed sewing, plug the eye of the needle, resulting in suture fracture, it is not suitable for high-speed suture clothing.
B. Nylon sewing thread: nylon sewing thread made of pure nylon multifilament, sub-filament yarn, short fiber lines and elastic deformation of three, the main varieties are nylon filament yarn. It has the advantage of strong elongation [MSOffice3], good elasticity, its fracture length is three times higher than the same specifications of cotton, which is suitable for sewing chemical fiber, wool, leather and elastic clothing. The advantages of nylon sewing thread is the development of transparent sewing thread, because this line is transparent, and color is better, thus reducing and solving the difficulties of sewing wiring, development prospects, but limited to the current market transparency of the stiffness too Large, the intensity is too low, easy to float on the surface of the fabric stitch, coupled with its intolerance high temperature, sewing speed can not be too high, is mainly used for decals, stack edge sewing, but not for the joint.
C. Vinylon sewing thread: made of vinylon fiber, its high strength, stitch smooth, mainly for sewing thick canvas, furniture, cloth, labor insurance products.
D. Acrylic sewing thread: made of acrylic fiber, mainly used for decorative lines and embroidery threads, yarn twist lower, brightly colored.
⑶ mixed sewing thread
A. Polyester / cotton sewing thread: 65% polyester and 35% cotton blended. Both the advantages of both polyester and cotton, both to ensure strength, wear, shrinkage requirements, but also to overcome the defects of polyester is not heat-resistant, high-speed sewing to adapt. Applicable to cotton, polyester / cotton and other clothing.
B. Core sewing thread: the filament core, the outer covering of natural fibers and the sewing thread. Its strength depends on the core, and wear and heat depends on the outsourcing of yarn. Therefore, the core sewing thread is suitable for high-speed sewing and need to sew high-strength clothing. In addition, the sewing thread can be divided into a coil, a wire tube, a bobbin, a ball thread, a thread ball, etc., and is divided into a sewing thread, an embroidery thread and an industrial thread.
2. Quality and Application of Sewing Thread
Sewing thread to assess the quality of a comprehensive indicator is seam. Seamability indicates the ability of the sewing thread to be sewn and form a good stitch under specified conditions and to maintain a certain mechanical property in the stitch. Seamability of the pros and cons, the garment production efficiency, sewing quality and take a direct impact on performance. According to national standards, the sewing thread grade is divided into first-class goods, second-class goods and other goods. In order to make the sewing thread in the garment processing have the best seam, the sewing effect is satisfactory, the correct choice and application of sewing thread is very important. The correct application of sewing thread, should follow the following principles:
⑴ compatibility with the fabric properties: sewing thread and the same raw materials or similar fabric in order to ensure its shrinkage, heat resistance, wear resistance, durability, etc. to avoid the line, the difference between the fabric caused by shrinkage appearance.
⑵ consistent with the type of clothing: for special purpose clothing, special features should be considered sewing thread, such as elastic clothing need elastic sewing thread, fire service required by the heat, flame retardant and waterproof sewing thread.
⑶ coordination with the stitch shape: different parts of the clothing used in different stitches, sewing thread should also be with its change, such as the need to use bulky sewing line or deformation line, double-track should choose a large extension of the line, crotch Seam, shoulder suture should be strong, and the buttonhole eyeliner is required to wear.
⑷ with the quality of the price of unity: the quality and price of sewing thread should be consistent with the grade of clothing, high-grade clothing with good quality and high price of sewing thread, the low-grade clothing with general quality, affordable sewing thread. In general, the sewing thread on the label are marked with the level of sewing thread, the use of raw materials, yarn fineness, etc., will help us to rationally choose and use sewing thread. Sewing thread signs usually include four items (in order): yarn thickness, color, raw materials, processing methods, can be “60 / 2X3 white polyester line” form.