In addition to sewing functions, sewing threads also play a decorative role. The raw materials of the sewing thread are mainly polyester filaments, polyester staple yarns, high-staple cotton, and polyester-cotton. Polyester sewing thread dyeing mostly uses disperse dyes. In order to increase the dye uptake rate, it is generally dyed in a high-temperature and high-pressure cheese jar, so the waste water has high temperature, low water content, and poor biodegradability.
The sewing thread is used to sew all kinds of garment fabrics and other accessories materials, and has the dual functions of utility and decoration. The quality of the suture does not only affect the sewing effect and processing cost, but also affects the appearance of the finished product. Persons engaged in the garment industry must understand the general concepts of suture formation, the relationship between twist, strength and strength, suture classification, characteristics and main uses, suture selection and other aspects of knowledge, the following is a brief introduction!
First, the concept of line
Carding (carding) refers to a yarn that is woven by one end only.
Combing refers to the use of combing machines to comb the yarns on both ends of the yarn, the impurities have been removed, and the fibers are more straight.
Blended yarns are yarns in which two or more different types of fibers are mixed together.
The single yarn is directly formed on the spinning frame and will be loosened once it is retracted.
Strands are two or more yarns that are twisted together.
Sewing thread is the collective name for the thread used to sewn garments and other sewing products.
The new type of spinning differs from traditional ring spinning in that one end is a free end, such as air-jet spinning, friction spinning, and the like. The yarns are tangled together and have no twist.
Yarn count is used to indicate the fineness of the yarn, mainly in English, metric, special, and denier.
Second, on the degree of degree
Concept: Through the twisting of the fiber structure of the wire, the relative angular displacement between the cross-sections of the wire is produced, and the structure of the wire is changed by the inclination of the straight fibers and the axis. Twisting can make the thread have certain physical and mechanical properties such as strength, elasticity, elongation, gloss and handfeel. It is expressed in terms of the number of turns per unit length, commonly used times per inch (TPI) or number of turns per meter (TPM). .
Roundabout: A 360 degree rotation around the axis.
Orientation (S-or Z-direction): When the sliver is vertical, the direction of the helix formed by the rotation around the axis. The tilt direction of the S direction is the same as the middle of the letter S, ie, the right-hand direction or the clockwise direction. The z direction of the z direction is the same as the center of the letter Z, ie the left hand or counterclockwise.
The relationship between twist and strength: The twist of the thread is proportional to the strength, but after a certain degree of strength, the strength drops instead. If the enthalpy is too large, the yoke angle increases, the luster of the line is poor, and the hand feels bad. When the squat is too small, the hairiness and feel are loose. This is because the increase in twisting increases the frictional resistance between the fibers and increases the strength of the wire. However, when the twist increases, the axial force component of the sliver becomes smaller, and the stress distribution of the inner and outer fibers is uneven, resulting in inconsistency of fiber breakage.
In short, there is a close relationship between the fracture performance, strength, and twistability of the wire. The twist and twist are determined according to the needs of the finished product and post-processing, and are generally Z twist.
Third, suture classification, characteristics and main purposes
According to raw materials can be divided into natural fiber sewing thread, synthetic fiber sewing thread and hybrid sewing thread three categories.
1. Natural fiber sewing thread
Cotton sewing thread————The sewing thread made of cotton fiber as a raw material by refining, bleaching, sizing and waxing. Cotton sewing thread can be divided into no light (or cord), filament light and wax light. Cotton sewing thread strength, heat resistance, suitable for high-speed sewing and durable press. It is mainly used for sewing cotton fabrics, leathers, and high temperature ironing garments. The disadvantages are poor elasticity and wear resistance.
Silk thread – long filament yarn or silk thread made from natural silk, has excellent gloss, its strength, flexibility and wear resistance are better than cotton. Suitable for sewing all kinds of silk clothing, high-grade woolen clothing, fur and leather clothing.
2. Synthetic fiber sewing thread
Polyester sewing thread—made of polyester filament or staple fiber, with high strength, good elasticity, wear resistance, low shrinkage, and good chemical stability. However, the melting point is low, high-speed easy to melt, plug the eye, easy to break the line, should pay attention to the choice of needle. Mainly used for jeans, sportswear, leather products, woolen materials and military uniforms, etc. It is the most widely used and most popular sewing thread.
Nylon sewing thread—made of pure nylon multifilament, divided into long thread, short fiber thread and elastic deformation line. At present, a long filament yarn is commonly used, which has a large degree of elongation and good elasticity, and its tensile elongation at the instant of breaking is more than three times that of a cotton thread of the same specification. Used for sewing chemical fiber, wool, leather and stretch garments. The biggest advantage of nylon sewing thread is its transparency. Because the thread is transparent and color is good, the difficulty of sewing wiring is reduced, and the development prospect is broad. However, in the current market, the transparency of the transparent wire is too high, the strength is too low, and the stitches are easy to float on the surface of the fabric. In addition to the high temperature, the sewing speed cannot be too high. At present, these lines are mainly used as decals, eaves, and other difficult parts.
Vinylon sewing thread – made of vinylon fiber, high strength, smooth stitches, mainly used for sewing thick canvas, furniture fabrics, labor insurance products and so on.
Acrylic sewing thread – made of acrylic fiber, low twist, bright color, mainly used for decoration and embroidery.
3. Hybrid sewing thread
Polyester/Cotton Sewing Thread——Used of 65% polyester and 35% cotton blended, it has the advantages of polyester and cotton. It has high strength, wear resistance, heat resistance and shrinkage, and is mainly used for cotton and polyester cotton. And other types of clothing high-speed sewing.
Core-sewing thread————filament is the core, which is made of outsourcing natural fiber, the strength depends on the core wire, and the wear and heat resistance depends on the outer yarn. It is mainly used for high-speed and firm clothing sewing thread.
What does the industrial sewing thread 20S/2X3 mean?
“20S” means that the 20-count single yarn, the British-style yarn, indicates the thickness of the yarn, which is a weight of 1 lb., which is the weight of the yarn. The number of 840 yards in length means how many yarns are counted. “” indicates that the division mark is equivalent to the score line, “20S” is the numerator, and “2X3” is the denominator. “2X3” means the following, the former refers to the number of single yarns that are twisted at one time, and the latter refers to the number of line numbers that are added twice. Normally, we call the finished product of a single yarn single-stranded as a wire, the finished product of the secondary twisting on the wire is a rope, and the finished product on a three-pass twist is a cable.